![]() |
| FAQ - Leopard Gecko Care |
|
Diet The diet
recommended for leopard geckos consists exclusively of insects.
*Never offer scorpions or lightning bugs. A diet consisting of a
variety of insect items is nutritionally complete. If meal worms are used,
offer them in a small dish containing powdered calcium carbonate.
Geckos have a higher tolerance for oral vitamin D3 than
other lizards and combination calcium/D3 supplements such as
Reptical are acceptable calcium carbonate substitutes in the dish
containing mealworms. Other
vitamin supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often harmful. If you
are feeding live insects, only provide enough for the animal to eat in a
few hours. Clean water should
be available at all times. Temperature and
Lighting Daytime
ambient temperature (everywhere in the enclosure) should be maintained
around 85 degrees F (29.5 C). Night time ambient temperature should be
maintained around 74 degrees F
(23 C), a range of 72-80 degrees F (22 – 26 C) is acceptable. An
Incandescent lamp for basking is not necessary for these nocturnal
animals. Leopard geckos have a low requirement for UVB light.
Fluorescent lamps with a moderate UVB output, such as
the Repti-sun 5.0 (ZooMed) or ReptiGlo 5.0 (Exoterra) are appropriate. Direct
exposure to the fluorescent lamp, with
no glass or plastic between the lamp and the animal, for 1 hour per week
is adequate. Recommended
cage substrates include desert topsoil, coarse gravel, and folded paper.
The majority of intestinal impactions occur due to sand (including
Calci-Sand), crushed walnut shell, or other substrates composed of small,
equal-sized particles and therefore these are not recommended.
Indoor-outdoor carpeting is also not recommended due to the
possibility of carpet threads constricting toes or being ingested.
Provide a humid shelter for geckos to use during shed cycles. Damp
sphagnum moss can be added to a hollow piece of wood, or a Tupperware
container with a hole in the side to provide an adequate environment. Soaking your gecko is not necessary and can be
harmful. Providing a humid, not wet, area to shed in is safer and healthier for your gecko.
Gut-loading is the
practice of feeding insects a diet high in calcium, protein, and other
nutrients prior to offering the insects to reptiles and amphibians.
Domestic crickets and meal worms should be fed a diet consisting of
four parts chicken or turkey starter mash and one part calcium carbonate
for two or three days before offering the crickets to your pet. Also,
offer the crickets water in a shallow dish or wet sponge.
Gut-loading beyond 2-3 days is not beneficial, and can actually
decrease the life expectancy of the insects.
© Sonora Veterinary Group, 2011 Free for distribution with proper citation. |
||||||||||
| Home | Site Map | Contact Us |